Kaynamış Kerevitteki Romantizm

Mart 24, 2010 at 21:50 · Filed under Doğa ve Hayvanlar, New Orleans

Bu New Orleans’ta en çok ama en çok sevdiğim şey nedir biliyor musun sevgili okur? En çok ama en çok sevdiğim şey New Orleans’ın aylar süren baharıdır. Dur korkma, romantikleşip öten kuşları filan anlatmayacağım (tamam anlatacağım biraz ama söz bu yazıda bol bol barbarlık, entrika, kin filan da var). Sulak memleketin her yerinden fışkırmış yeşilliklerin ve koca gövdeli kıvır kıvır dallı ağaçların coştuğu, japon manolyalarının çiçek açıp yollarınıza gül döktüğü, sizin de sabah okula-işe o çiçeklerin döküldüğü kaldırımlardan saçınızı attırarak yürürken “ahaytt benim için, ne gereği vardı, hayranlarım, sizlerle varım” filan diye kendinizi kırmızı halı artisi sandığınız bir mevsimdir. İnsan denilen varlığın vücudunun kendini en mutlu hissettiği nem ve sıcaklılar, şu hani Ankara’da üç gün süren o nefis bahar havalarından bahsediyorum, New Orleans’ta aylarca sürer.

Bi delikanlı bahar ol arkadaşım. Geldin mi bi kal adam gibi. Her sefer “daha karpuz kesecektik” ile uğraştırma. New Orleans’ın baharı delikanlıdır öyle işte (yazı da kasırgalarıyla ortalığı yıkıp döken bir kabadayı, ama o konuyu hiç açmayalım şimdi).

"Gül döktüm yollarına" isimli bu çalışma A. Murat Eren'e ait.

Bahar, insanı kendinden geçiren güzelliğine, New Orleans’ta en ama ennnn sevdiğim ikinci şeyi katarak gelir: Kerevit Kaynatmak! Yani buralardaki ismi ile “Crawfish Boil“. Ben size kerevit kaynatmayı anlatayım ne olur! Yemiş kadar olun sonunda, keşke!

Öncelikle şunu söyleyerek başlayacağım. New Orleans’ın Mardi Gras festivaliymiş, boncuğuymuş, Jazz’ıymış, Fransız Mahallesi’ymiş, Bourbon sokağında meme açan kadınlarıymış (yalan göremedik hâlâ). BIRAHHH YAAA! Sevgili okur bırak, bırak, bıraağğak… Sen New Orleans’ı anlamak, yaşamak, bilmek mi istiyorsun? Turist değil de buralı mı olmak istiyorsun? Senin ihtiyacın olan şey kerevit kaynatmak canım benim. Şubat’ta Mardigra’yı filan boşver, sen buraya Mart sonunda, Nisan başında gel. Zira bu, kerevit kaynatma sezonunu açtığımız zamandır.

fotoğraf Wikipedia'dan

Tanıştırayım: Kırmızı bataklık kereviti (Procambarus clarkii). Kendisi bir tatlı su kabuklusudur, genel olarak ABD’nin güneyinde, dolayısıyla Louisiana Eyaleti’nin bataklıklarında yaşar. Dünya kerevit üretiminin %90′ı Louisiana’daki kerevit çiftliklerinde yapılmakta, bu kerevitlerin %70′i de sadece Louisiana’da tüketilmektedir. Bir yiyoruz bir yiyoruz biz buralarda bu hayvanceğizi yani. Neden ve nasıl yiyoruz ama, işte olay orada bitiyor zaten.

İlk görüşte entrika, kin, nefret

Benim kerevitle tanışmam biraz travmatik oldu aslında. Seneler geçmiş vay, inanması güç benim için o seneler nasıl uçtu gitti ama, işte onca seneler önce, New Orleans’a yeni gelmiş bir şaşkın iken, yeni dünyada daha ikinci haftam filanken, buradaki Türkiyeli arkadaşlar beni kolumdan tutup Pontchartrain Gölü’nün kenarındaki restoranlardan birine götürdüler. Ben her şeyi yiyebilecek kapasitenin insanıyım, biliyoruz. Amma ve lakin, ısmarladığımız yemeklerin önünden gelen bir tepsi kaynamış kerevit ve bu kereviti yeme tarzı beni şaşkınlık ve üzüntüden pörtlemiş gözlerle bir süre donup kalmaya gark ettiydi. Zira kaynamış kerevit yemek, garip bir barbarlık gerektiriyordu. O noktada benim midesine düşkün gurme özentisi bünyem ile hayvansever kalbim bir kapıştı. Bir saçsaça başbaşa… O gün hayvanseverlik kazandı, ama derbide yiyeceği gollerden ve tükürdüğü “İçinden çıkan minnacık et için koskoca hayvanı kaynatıp çıtır çıtır kabuklarını kırarak yiyorsunuz! Korkunç! Ben yiyemem kusura bakmayın.” sözlerini bir güzel yalayacağından haberi yokmuş meğersem.

fotoğraf Wikipedia'dan

İkinci görüşte aşk

Bu travmatik tanışmanın üzerinden bir sene geçti. Birgün Amerikalı bir arkadaşım beni evindeki kerevit kaynatma partisine çağırdı. Sosyalleşmek uğruna kalktım gittim. Masalar kurulmuş bahçeye. Üzerleri gazete ile kaplanmış. Kenarda dev bir kazanda kerevitler kaynıyor. Patates, bütün bütün atılmış sarımsak, mısır, soğan da var kaynayan baharatlı suyun içinde. Kenarda bir çuvalda da, kıpır kıpır kerevitler var (diğer kabukluların -misal yengeç- pişirilişinde olduğu gibi bunlar da canlı canlı atılıyor suya). İlk parti kerevitler hazır olunca, kazanın içindeki süzgeçli kap çıkarılıyor, kerevitler gazete kaplı masaya boşaltılıyor, herkes etrafına toplaşıp çıtır çıtır kabuk kırarak yemeye başlıyor. Bir yandan bira içilip sohbet ediliyor. Normalde kibarlık kumkuması, hijyen manyağı beyaz Amerikalıları böyle bataklıktan çıkıp gelmiş, çamuruyla kaynamış bir hayvanı keyifli keyifli yerken görünce, bir de olayın o tatlı sosyal-kültürel yanı, yerelliği, kendine haslığı, üstüne bir de ağzımı şu satırları yazdığım dakikalarda bile sulandıran lezzet işin içine girince,  kerevit kaynatma işine oracıkta aşık oldum.

Henüz kaynatılmamış kerevitler (Wikipedia)

Kereviti yerken içindeki barbarı uyandırmak

Kereviti adabına uygun barbarlıkta yemek ise şöyle gerçekleşiyor sevgili okur, yılların deneyimi konuşuyor artık. Hayvanı elinize alıyorsunuz. Karın kısmını çevirip, bir elinizle gövdesini bir elinizle kıvrılmış kuyruğunu doğru yerden tutarak çekip koparıyorsunuz. Asıl et kuyrukta. Ama ona geçmeden önce, gövdede kuyruk gidince açılan boş kısma dudakları dayayıp (kemik iliği emer gibi) hüüüp hüüp diye suları,  tam olarak ne olduğunu anlamadığınız sarı sarı ve iğrenç görünen ama lezzetli şeyleri emiyorsunuz. Sonra kuyruğun kabuğunu ayıklayıp afiyetle yiyorsunuz (ki bunun da ayrıntılarını buradan anlatması zor bir usulü var ama tabi ki YouTube’de var, buyrun). Ardından, kıskaçları koparıyorsunuz, oradan da ufak etler çıkıyor. Son olarak kıskaçlara da bir emiş gücü uygulayalım, zira orada da sıkışmış baharatlı suyu var, içeride kalan eti var. EVET YANİ HAYVANI ELLERİNİZLE PARÇA PİNÇİK ETMENİZDEN BAHSEDİYORUM!

(Bugün okulda kerevit kaynatma günüydü, sizler için görüntüledik)

(not: Telefon ile çekilmiş bu berbat fotoğrafları görünce Meren beni öldürecek. Sizlere New Orleans'tan bildirmek için aile saadetimi tehlikeye atıyor olduğum umarım gözünüzden kaçmamıştır sevgili okurlar)

Bu sırada, kerevitin kaynatıldığı suya eklenmiş olan Cajun baharatı yavaş yavaş burnunuzu akıtmaya başlıyor. Üç beş kerevitten sonra herkes eller bulaşmış, fırk fırk diye burunlarını çekmekte oluyor. Arada gözünüze kestirdiğiniz bir patatesi yiyorsunuz kabuğuyla. Nedense, suyun baharatı en çok mısırı yerken yakıyor dudaklarınızı. Masanın bir kenarında parçalanmış kabuklar birikirken, siz dirseğinizden damlayan kerevit suları, ağzınızda bataklığın kumunun tadı, elinize yapışmış kabuk ve bataklık bitkisi parçaları ile, öyle biraz burun çekerek, bir kerevit kafası hüpleterek, iki sohbet ederek, biradan bir yudum alarak tam bir Louisiana’lı oluyorsunuz. İşte ben, oradaki garip doğallığı, dağınıklığı, rahatlığı seviyorum. İnsan olma deneyimini, Kanada kıyılarından kaçıp gelerek yerleştiği bu bataklıklarda bulduğu hayvanı bile cebinden çıkardığı baharatla lezzetlendirebilen o kültür vasıtasıyla konuşmayı ve çeşitliliği kutlamayı seviyorum. Bir başka ülkenin kültürünü yadsıyıp itelemek yerine, o kültürle kaynaşabilme ihtimalimi seviyorum.

Bu satırları yazarken şunu biliyorum ki, yıllar sonra, dünyanın bir başka köşesinde iken bunları okuyup özlemimden ağlayacağım. İşte bunu buraya yazıyorum! (Romantikleşmeyeceğim demiştim, ama sözümde durmadım. Kendimi affettirmek için buraya gelene kerevitler benden :)

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  1. gaykedi said,

    Mart 24, 2010 @ 22:30

    bu hayvanların canlı canlı haşlanırken sinir sistemleri çok gelişmediği için acı çekmediğini söyleyenler vardı ama bildiğim kadarıyla acı çektiği ispatlandı :(

  2. Ahmet Zehir said,

    Mart 24, 2010 @ 22:40

    aferim :(( ne demissin son paragrafta? hah iste. senin gorevin mayis ayinin ikinci hafta sonu icin craw fish boil partisi duzenlemek o zaman.

  3. Düygü said,

    Mart 24, 2010 @ 22:40

    Gaykedi, açıkçası işin bilimini ben de bilmiyorum fakat, eğer bir insan vejeteryan değilse (ki ben değilim pek çok sebepten), o kişinin bu deniz mahsüllerinin kaynar suya atıldıklarında çektikleri acı konusunda hassaslık gösterip, o akşam evde tavuk, dana eti filan yemesi tam bir çelişki haline geliyor. Zira, büyük büyük çiftliklerde tavukların filan nasıl yetiştirildiğine, kesildiğine vesaireye dair öyle korkunç öyküler var ki, bütün hayatını suyun içinde rahat rahat geçirip son dakikada haşlanma acısı çeken kerevit bir tavuğa ya da danaya göre çok daha şanslıdır desem yeri.

  4. Düygü said,

    Mart 24, 2010 @ 22:40

    Ahmetçim yavrucum, not ettim takvimime be! Seni mi kırıcam :)

  5. gaykedi said,

    Mart 24, 2010 @ 22:46

    bende her ne kadar balık dışında etyememeye çalışsam da, vejeteryan sayılmam, ama ne bileyim kafa kesmek ile canlı canlı haşlanmak arasında çok fark var sanki. Ayrıca batı ülkelerinde küçük baş ve büyük baş hayvanlar bayıltılarak kesiliyo, valla benim vicdanım bu haşlanma olayını kaldırmıyor Duygu.

  6. içten said,

    Mart 24, 2010 @ 23:15

    bir vejetaryen olarak gaykedi’nin merhametini maalesef samimi bulamıyorum. batı ülkelerinde hayvanların bayıltıldığı doğru değil. yediğiniz tavuk ve danaların kerevitlerden çok daha korkunç şeyler yaşadığı konusunda duygu haklı. ama mezbahalarda olup bitenler gözden uzak olunca insanlar vicdanlarını yatıştıracak bahaneler bulabiliyor ve merhametleri sadece kerevit gibi göz önünde haşlanan canlılara yöneliyor. tabii duygu’nun onu yiyorsan bunu da yersin mantığını da bir çeşit vicdan yatıştırma bahanesi olarak görüyor ve hatta kendimi tartışmanıza temiz vicdanıyla tepeden bakan bir yarıtanrı gibi hissediyorum nihahah :P

  7. gaykedi said,

    Mart 24, 2010 @ 23:24

    tam bir vejetaryen olamasam da ahlaki nedenlerle eti minimum tüketmeye ve sorgulamaya çalışıyorum @içten hemen ezikleme lütfen :)

    pek çok batı ülkesinde bayıltılma zorunluluğun kanunlarla korunduğunu bu yüzden müslüman ve yahudi cemaatle hayvan hakları örgütlerinin mahkemelik olduğunu çeşitli yerlerde okuduğumu hatırlıyorum tabi bu mezbahanelerin korkunçluğunu ve hayvanların çilesini sadece bir parça azaltmaktan başka bir işe yaramıyor bunun da farkındayım :(

  8. merenbey said,

    Mart 25, 2010 @ 00:28

    İnsanın elitizmi, kendisini doğa içerisinde konumlandırdığı kutsal mevki… Bu konular yeniden açıldığı için çok mutluyum. Belki bu sefer her birimiz kendimizi en doğru şekilde ifade ederiz de bu ölümler bir son bulur. Ben bu sefer çok ciddiyim, sonuna kadar götürelim diyorum.

    Şahsen ben de çitaların antilopları öldürme şeklinden nefret ediyorum. Canlı canlı tüketmeye başlıyorlar hayvanı :( Halâ bunun bir çözümünü bulamamış olmalarını anlamıyorum (bizim kadar akıllı olmadıklarından olsa gerek, vicdansız orospu çocukları). Karıncayiyen mesela. Bir oturuşta zibilyon tane yiyor. Bir kısmını keyif için yiyor bile olabilir. Balinaların tükettikleri planktonun ise haddi hesabı yok. Planktonların başına gelenler düşünüldüğünde antiloplar şanslı bile sayılabilir. Taş çatlasa 20 dakikada ölüyordur antilop. Zavallı planktonlar ise balinanın mide asitlerinin dokularını parçalamaya başlamasını bekliyor öyle. Vahşet. Soruyorum size, buna göz yumulabilir mi? Vicdanımız buna göz yumabilir mi?

    Bitkiler bizim vicdanımız için en doğrusu bence. Çünkü bizim şu güne değin keşfettiğimiz kadarı, yaşam hakkında anlayabildiğimiz kadarı onların “acı” çekmediğini gösteriyor. Dolayısıyla onların yaşam enerjisini söndürmekte, varlıklarını varlığımıza katmakta sakınca yok…

    Sevgili canlılar, biz bu gezegen üzerinde hasbelkader bu noktaya kadar evrilip ateşi mateşi bulmuş olan, kurduğumuz şehirlerle doğanın izbe düzensizliği içinde vahalar yaratmış olan ve fakat son zamanlarda vicdanına yenik düşmeye başlamış olan insan canlıları olarak neyin ne kadar acı çektiğine aklımız erdiğince karar verdik. Bu bağlamda bitkiler bizim kendilerinin tüketilmesinde sakınca görmeyeceğimiz kadar ilkel kaldıkları için bundan sonra herkesin onları tüketmesinin en doğrusu olduğunu düşünüyoruz. İşbirliğiniz için şimdiden teşekkürler.

  9. içten said,

    Mart 25, 2010 @ 00:52

    püff işte en çok et yiyenlerin bu her şeyi anlamış olduğunu zanneden tavrına uyuz oluyorum. ne kadar alengirli laflar kullanmaya çalışsalar da sonunda tüm argümanları “bitkinin de canı var” ve “doğada hayvanlar birbirini yiyor”dan ibaret. bu basit argümanlara vejetaryenlerin cevabı olmadığına dair derin güvenleri nerden geliyor bir anlasam. halbuki yolunan otla tüm hayatını et makinesi muamelesi görerek geçiren hayvanın “acı”sının aynı olmayacağını kendileri de çok iyi bilirler. hayatını sürdürmek için avlanmak zorunda olan etoburla bedeni et sindirimine uygun tasarıma sahip olmayan ve et yemeden de çok sağlıklı yaşayabilen insanın da aynı olmadığını bildiklerine eminim.

  10. merenbey said,

    Mart 25, 2010 @ 01:43

    ben aslında “hayvanlar ölmesin amağ :(” diyenlerin her şeyi anlamış tavırları ile dalga geçiyordum (ironi demişken: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/2697806 ). benim vejeteryan olmadığımı nereden biliyorsun onu da anlayamadım açıkçası :)

    hayvanların bu miktarda ve koşullarda öldürülüyor olmasına farklı bir boyutta senden daha çok üzülüyor dahi olabilirim. fakat bilimsel değil vicdani/ahlaki bir düzlemde vejeteryanlık/etoburluk tartışması yapılması, bana din kitaplarında yazan şeylerden yola çıkarak insanların tercihlerini tartışmaktan çok daha farklı gelmiyor (ikisi de aynı derecede sığ, bireysel eğilimlere endeksli ve dolayısıyla verimsiz) (bu arada “her şey bilimsel düzlemde konuşulup tartışılmalıdır” diyen bir pozitivist de değilim, fakat geyik yapanlar geyik yaptıklarını unuttukları zaman tilt oluyorum, böyle şeyleri “tartışma” zemini bu deyil). yoksa benim önceki yorumda yazdıklarım safi geyik, içinde argüman olarak addetmeye değer bir şey yok (senin söylediklerinde de olmadığı gibi ;)).

    ha, bu geyiği bir tartışmaya çevirecek birisi gelir, o zaman oturur ciddi ciddi okur, dilim dönerse yazarım. diğer türlü planktonların acısına deva bulmadan vicdanınız rahatlayabiliyorsa bence hiçbiriniz insan değilsiniz :(

  11. Deniz Ural said,

    Mart 25, 2010 @ 03:28

    Küçük Prens’ten bir alıntı yapasım geldi, planktonla birlikte düşünmek gerek:
    “Boa yılanı avını çiğnemeden, bütün olarak yutar ve hareket edemez hale gelir. Sonra da onu sindirebilmek için altı ay boyunca uyur.”
    Planktonlar çok küçük oldukları için ve ben insan olarak çok büyük olduğum için ona vicdan yapmak yerine, boğa yılanının avının kaderiyle katarsis (entel kelime) yaşarım Meren Bey. Doğrusunu yanlışını araştırmam yaşarım valla.

    Bir biyolokum olarak pek etkilenmediğini biliyorum ama yine de o heyvanların pişmeden önceki halini görmek biraz fena oldu, hele ki akşamdan kalma bir mide üzerine… Kocaman böcek değil de nedir yani o sorarım? İnsanlığın en ortak tiksintisinin böcekten tiksinme olmasının, onların türünün dünya üzerinde daha fazla yaşamış ve yaşayacak olmasına duydukları bilinçsiz kıskançlık olduğunu düşünüyorum bu arada. Sen de bu kıskançlık dolayısıyla onları yiyiyorsun zaten, ehehe. Bence BeMeCe. :)

  12. tanla said,

    Mart 25, 2010 @ 03:49

    “O noktada benim midesine düşkün gurme özentisi bünyem ile hayvansever kalbim bir kapıştı. Bir saçsaça başbaşa…” komik misiniz nesiniz anlamadım ki:)

    Ps: Denizden babam çıksa yerim.

  13. pinar said,

    Mart 25, 2010 @ 03:57

    Nisan başı sözünü not ediyorum Düygücüm, soora yok efenim bu sene kerevit sezonu erken kapandı, yok efenim biz kerevitlerle can ciğer kanka olduk, anlaştık her hafta bize oturmaya geliyolar falan annamaaaam :)))

  14. Uğur Galeni said,

    Mart 25, 2010 @ 05:13

    “Denizden babam çıksa yerim” diye ata sözü bulunan bir ecdadın torunlarıyız. Eferim Duygu bizi iyi temsil etmişsin :)) Lakin o ata sözüne ekleme yapmak gerekir bu yazıdan sonra. Şöyle ki “Denizden babam çıksa yerim, bataklıktan dayım çıksa emiklerim” şeklinde :))

  15. Düygü said,

    Mart 25, 2010 @ 08:51

    İnsanoğluna nadiren bu kadar sevgi duyduğum ve insan olmayı kutladığım oluyor. Bu yazıyı yazmama sebep olan, o anlardan biriydi. Yazıya gelen tepkiler beklediğimden o kadar farklı oldu ki, bir sürü düşünmemi sağladı, kaynatılan hayvanlarla ilgili filan değil, insanlar hakkında, dönüştüğüm rasyonel bilim insanı hakkında. Çok zihin açıcı bir deneyim oldu bu benim için :) Ama Türkiyem kaynamış kerevite hazır değilmiş bunu gördük :)

  16. begüm said,

    Mart 25, 2010 @ 08:57

    duygum ağzımın suları aktı.. öyle tatlı anlamışsın ki o kerevit kaynatma partisini, bir tanesine katılmış olsam bu kadar tatlı gelmezdi sanki..
    bu kerevitleri canlı canlı dondursan, bir uğradığımızda tekrar çözsek yenir mi sorusu geldi aklıma:) hani mart-nisan yolumuz düşemez de, başka mevsim düşerse diye..

  17. Deniz Ural said,

    Mart 25, 2010 @ 09:14

    Sabah yazdığım yoruma akşam dönüp baktım da, ilk kısmı dalga geçer gibi olmuş. Aman diyeyim, öyle bir niyetim yok, ah bu mimiksiz, vurgusuz ortamların gözü kör olsun :) Ayrıca geçen saatler bu böceklere alışmamı mı sağladı nedir, gayet de yerim gibi geliyor artık. Hem çok acıktım hem de merak ettim. Bir gün New Orleans semalarına varırsam, balkondan boncuk mu atılıyormuş ne onu yaptıktan sonra ilk iş bunların tadına bir bakacağım. Teşekkürler Düygü.

  18. Erdal said,

    Mart 25, 2010 @ 10:14

    ”Ama Türkiyem kaynamış kerevite hazır değilmiş bunu gördük :)”

    Yıllardır Antalya’nın yaylalarında (göl olanlarında tabi) kerevitler yakalanıp haşlanıp yenmektedir. ;)

    http://www.trekking.com.tr/content.asp?ContentID=648&CategoryID=201

  19. Duygu said,

    Mart 25, 2010 @ 11:36

    Begümüm, başka mevsim olmuyor işte malesef. Ama sanırım Mart’tan Haziran’a kadar yolu var. En güzeli Mart-Nisan çünkü hava da çok güzel oluyor.

    Kaynatma partisini yapamayız belki ama ben size Crawfish étouffeé yediririm, crawfish omelette yediririm :) Yeter ki gelin.

  20. Duygu said,

    Mart 25, 2010 @ 11:38

    Deniz, ben dalga geçtiğini düşünmemiştim, korkma :) Sadece belli ki oradan bakınca işin kültürel şahaneliği değil, hayvanların kaynıyor olması (ki yukarıda da söylediğim gibi bence tavuklar daha çok çile çekiyor, bu yüzden bunu düşünmek anlamsız) ön plana çıkıyor. Ben araştırmacı gazetecilik görevimi yerine getirdim, sizlere bu olayı belgeleriyle aktardım :)

  21. nunu said,

    Mart 25, 2010 @ 11:47

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    zaten bu guney’in redneck’lerinin cok ozenilesi bi sincapliklari yok mu?

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