Baobap, zürafa ve ben

Mart 11, 2012 at 20:18 · Filed under Doğa ve Hayvanlar, Evliya Çelebi, Fotoğraf

Senegal’de kalbimi çalıveren şeyler listesinin en üst sırasına açık arayla oturan güzellik: Baobap ağacı. Benim baobapla tanışmam aslında Senegal’e gitmeden hemen önce oldu. Bu gezi planımdan hocama bahsettiğimde bana ”Ben Senegal’e hiç gitmedim ama annemle babam Senegalli bir grubun müziklerini çok seviyorlar, bana CD’sini çekip vermişlerdi, sana onu getireyim de gitmeden dinle” dedi.

Bir iki gün sonra elinde bir CD ile geldi: Orchestra Baobab. Bence şimdi bu yazıyı okumaya devam etmeden önce internetten hemen bir Orchestra Baobab parçası bulun, fon müziği yapın. Eğer çalışırsa şurada Grooveshark üzerinden dinleyebileceğiniz bir parça var. Ben şimdi dinliyorum ve yine Senegal özlemiyle doldum.

CD’yi dinlemeye başlayıp hemen ardından ”baobab da ne ola ki” diye wikipediaya sordum. ”Çok seviceğin bişey, bi ağaç bu!” dedi (Türkçesi de baobapmış). Anlayacağınız, daha gitmeden, hayatıma nefis bir müzik ile giriş yaptı.

Başkent Dakar’da baobap ne arar, çirkin, çarpık bir şehir aslında. Çok güzel vakit geçirmek için şehrin çok güzel olması gerekmiyor, insanları güzel olunca, sizin kafanız güzel olunca, her yer güzel, bu gezimizin en önemli mesajlarından biri buydu. Dakar’da birlikte vakit geçirdiğim arkadaşlarım, hafta sonu beni Popenguine (Popengin okunuyor) isimli minik bir sahil kasabasına götürme planı yapmışlardı. Onu ayrıca yazmak istiyorum. Ama önceki yazıdan kayıklı fotoğrafa bakarsanız işte orası. Nirvana’ya ulaşma yeri, özellikle de oraya gitmek için çekilen yol eziyeti düşünülürse, göze daha bir cennet gibi görünüyor. Zira, Dakar’dan çıkabilmek için, inanılmaz bir trafik kaosuna katlanmak gerekiyor. İstanbul’da bile böylesi yok. Ama ben yol boyunca fotoğraf çektiğim için benim açımdan arabanın yavaş gidiyor, ya da hiç ilerlemeden dakikalarca bekliyor olması bir avantaja dönüştü. Tabi her şeye rağmen yoruluyorsunuz ve sonunda Popenguine’in sahiline vardığınızda harika hissediyorsunuz.

O trafikte bol bol sohbet etme fırsatımız da oldu. Bana ”birazdan bu çirkin şehir ve trafik bir anda bitecek ve baobap ormanlarına varacağız” dediler. ”Orman” biraz abartılı bir tanım olsa da, hakikaten şehir, insan kalabalığı ve arabalar bitti ve bir anda kendimi şu manzarayla karşı karşıya buldum:

Ama olsun, orman diyelimdi, problem yoktu benim için. Daha önce hiç görmediğim bir şekle sahipti bu ağaçlar. Kitaplardan görmüşlüğüm vardı tabi ama birebir görmek bir ayrı keyifti. Bu arada eğer bana ”eh be biyolokum, şunun çöpsüz, torbasız bir versiyonunu çekemedin mi?” derseniz, ”hayır çekemedim, çünkü imkansızdı” derim. Zira, o torbalar çöpler, şehirden ne kadar uzaklaşsanız da her yerdeler, sanırım iklimin çok rüzgarlı olmasının bu dağılımda etkisi var. Bizim arkadaşlar ”bunlar burada her bitkinin üzerinde yetişen Senegal’e has bir tür meyve” diye dalga geçiyorlardı. Üzücü ama işte öyle, buradaki hayatın bir parçası olmuş plastik torbalar.

Daha önce wikitravel Senegal sayfalarını karıştırırken, Popenguine yakınlarında Réserve de Bandia isimli koruma altına alınmış bir alan olduğunu (bir çeşit doğal park) okumuştum. Yolda arkadaşlarıma oradan bahsettiğimde ”aa sen çok seversin, bir sürü hayvanlar var, yarın mutlaka gidelim” dediler. Ertesi sabah erkenden kalkıp gittik.

Reservin girişi.

İçeri girdiğinizde hayvanat bahçesi gibi bilet alıyorsunuz, sonra eğer kendi arabanızla gelmişseniz bir rehber veriyorlar yanınıza. O sizi gezdiriyor. Girişin hemen yakınındaki sırtlan kafesi dışında kafes yok, bütün hayvanlar dev bir alanda serbest yaşıyorlar, kendi yemeklerini kendileri buluyorlar (çok ekstra bir durum olup da yemeksiz kalma riski ortaya çıkarsa o zaman park görevlileri yiyecek bırakıyorlarmış belli noktalara). Hiç yırtıcı hayvan yok, o bakımdan hayvanların birbirini (ya da sizi) yemeleri söz konusu değil. Bir çeşit aslansız kaplansız safari yaptık yani. Bol bol zürafa gördük.

Hatta arabadan inip fotoğraf çekmeye de izin vardı.

Ben bu fotoğrafı çekerken arkadaşlarım da arabadan beni çekiyorlarmıştı meğer, sonradan görünce çok mutlu oldum :)

Zürafaları ve tüm gün kemirdikleri dikenli akasya ağaçlarını bir kenara bırakıp baobaba dönecek olursak, parkta bol bol baobap da gördük. Bunlardan bir tanesi fili andırıyordu ve rehber bu ağaca fil baobap dediklerini söyledi.

Bir diğer baobap, turistik amaçlar için kullanılmaktaydı.

Ağaç bu kadar haşmetli olunca, eski geleneklerin manevi ritüellerine alet olmaması imkansız. Senegal’in büyük çoğunluğu müslüman olmadan önce insanlar animizm denilen bir inanca sahiplermiş, ki hala daha nüfusun %1′i bu inanca sahip. Animistler, kabaca, doğadaki her şeyin (insanlar, hayvanlar, dağlar, taşlar, objeler, her şeyler işte) bir ruhu olduğuna inanıyorlar. Baobapla olan bağlantı ise şu: eskiden şarkılar öyküler ”griot” (griyo okunur) denilen halk şairleri aracılığıyla nefisden nesile aktarılıyormuş, zaten Senegal Fransız sömürgesi olana dek yazılı bir dil yokmuş. Batı Afrika’ya özgü öykücü, dansçı, müzisyen, şair, yani çok yönlü bilge ve saygı duyulan bir şahıs yani.

Senegalli bir griot. Resim wikipediadan.

Ve bir griot öldüğü zaman bedeni baobap ağacının içindeki bir oyuğa konurmuş. Nitekim bu turistik baobap ağacımızın hemen altında, tel örgüyle kaplanmış bir oyuk var. Oyuğun içinde de kafatasları. Bana bunlar gerçek griot kafatasları değil de göstermelik konmuş gibi geldi, ama yine de insan kafatası oldukları belli, kimin acaba diye merak etmekten kendimi alamadım. Bi DNA örneği mi alsaydım… Deli miydim neydim… Ne acayip şeyler düşünüyordum yine… Hep boabab yüzünden, aklımı başımdan aldı.

Hemen arkada da şu tabela.

Diyor ki: Griot mezarı. 1960′lara dek, Serer insanları griotlarının ölülerini baobapların gövdesine koyarlardı. Griotlar dansçı ve Tam.Tam davulcularıdır.

Rezervde saatler geçirip orada yaşayan görebileceğimiz tüm hayvanları gördükten sonra (ki gergedanları bulmamız biraz vakit aldı), sempatik rehberimize hoşçakal dedik ve Dakar yoluna düştük.

Bu arada, önceki gün, Popenguine’de bir restoranda yemek yerken (zaten 2 tane restoran var), turistlerin geldiğini görüp restoranın hemen oraya dükkan açan kolyeci bir adamla, çooook uzun bir pazarlık sonucu o günden beri boynumdan çıkarmadığım şu kolyeyi aldım. (Pazarlık öyküsünü Popenguine’den bahsedeceğim yazıda anlatırım artık – çok da matah bir olay değil zaten).

Baobap aslında bir tek türün ismi değil, Adansonia cinsine ait tüm ağaçlara verilen genel isim. Aslında muhtemelen çoğumuzun daha aşinası olduğumuz bir baobap var: Madagaskar baobabı.

Bu yavrucağın adı Adansonia grandidieri. (Fotoğraf wikipedia ama en kısa zamanda umarım kendim Madagaskar’a gider bizzat tanışır, fotoğrafını çekerim).

Bizim Senegal baobaplarının Latince ismi ise Adansonia digitata.

Senegal’de baobabın meyvesine ”maymun ekmeği” diyorlar ve bu meyvelerden bir çeşit şeker yapıyorlar, atıştırmalık. Ama malesef işte baobapla anlaşamadığımız tek nokta bu, ağzıma koymamla çıkarmam bir oldu, nasıl acayip bir tat. O da nazarlık olsun şekerim.

Bu şekeri:

İşte bu da meyvesi:

Baobapların binlerce yıl yaşadığı biliniyor ama süngersi yapıya sahip gövdesi yüzünden diğer ağaçlar gibi düzenli yaş halkaları oluşturmadığından kesin yaşlarını söylemek zor oluyormuş. Fakat 1960′larda bir sebepten kesilen bir baobap ağacının gövdesinin iç kısımlarından alınan örnekler üzerinde yapılan karbon 14 deneyleri ile o ağacın 56oo küsür yaşında olduğunu saptamışlar.

İnternette bakınırken aşağıdaki şu fotoğrafı buldum. Fotoğrafı aldığım blogdaki diğer fotoğraflara da mutlaka göz atın :) Buradan.

Bu endama bakıp en azından birkaç bin yıllık bir yaş biçmemek zor zaten.

Afrikalılar baobaba yaşam ağacı diyorlar. Küçük Prens baobabın, gezegenini saracağından korkuyor. Bense Senegal’de bana hediye edilen baobap tohumlarını ekeceğim günü (yani havaların biraz ısınmasını) bekliyorum…

Bir dahaki sefere Popenguine ve Dakar. O zamana kadar Youssou N’Dour ve Ismael Lo dinleyerek Senegal havasını biraz daha yaşayabilirsiniz :)

  • Share/Bookmark

475 Yorum »

  1. Nil ipek said,

    Mart 12, 2012 @ 04:47

    Baobap onemli. Kucuk Prens ile tanidik biz hep baobap agaclarini..

  2. Nil ipek said,

    Mart 12, 2012 @ 04:47

    Ahahacok ciddi oldu aniden, bir de gulucuk ekleyeyim :)

  3. Biyolokum said,

    Mart 12, 2012 @ 08:13

    Benim hem hafızam kötü, hem Küçük Prens’i okuyalı çok zaman olmuştu, o yüzden Senegal’e gitme sürecinde baobapları tamamen unutmuştum. Fakat döndükten sonra tesadüfen Küçük Prens’in öyküsünden yola çıkılarak yazılmış bir çizgiromanı okuduğum sırada orada yeniden gördüm. Hayıflandım, nasıl unuturum böyle bir ayrıntıyı dedim. Kitabı bir daha okumanın zamanı geldi de geçiyor. :)

  4. nihal said,

    Mart 14, 2012 @ 07:01

    e biraz afrika müziği verelim bünyeye madem: mixcloud.com/bongopod

  5. dicle said,

    Nisan 5, 2012 @ 01:00

    Baobap üzerine içtenlikle yazılmış, her yerde bulunamayacak bilgilendirici ayrıntılarla dolu güzel bir yazı… Teşekkürler.

  6. kerem said,

    Nisan 11, 2012 @ 00:30

    duygu ne yazsa okunur gibi bi his oluyor bende bu tip yazılarını okuyunca…. bende hatırlayamadım küçük prensten bahsedilene kadar… yaşlanmışım küçük prensi bile unutacak kadar…. yeni yazılarınıda görüşmek üzere…. eline sağlık biyolokum… :)

  7. “Kriptografi Gördüm”, Wunjo… » Popenguine ve yolları said,

    Nisan 30, 2012 @ 16:27

    [...] para harcamaktan hoşlanan bir insan değilim. O yüzden tam yürüyüp geçiyordum ki, gözüme baobap kolyesi ilişti. Fakat önceki gün Dakar’dayken yaşadığım pazarlık/hediye etme macerasından [...]

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