Mutlak karanlıkta şeker kıvılcımları

Yeni çalışmaya başladığım laboratuvarda (bir ara ayrıntılı bahsederim diye umuyorum) bir doktora öğrencisi var (Ed). Daha Maryland’e taşınmadan önce, şans eseri, Kasım’da gittiğim bir kursa Ed’i de kabul ettikleri için birlikte vakit geçirme şansımız olmuştu ve iyi anlaştık. Hatta o kadar iyi anlaştık ki, birlikte mağaracılık etkinliklerine katılmaya başladık. Bu yazımızın konusu da mağaracılık nitekim.

Ed Arjantinli olduğundan kültür, hal, tavır olarak bize biraz daha yakın. Kimi zaman Amerikalılarla yakın arkadaş olmak çok uzun sürebiliyor. Ama buraya geldiğim hafta Ed hemen gelip bana yardımcı oldu, etrafı gösterdi, insanlarla tanıştırdı. O sayede ilk günlerin ürkekliği çabucak geçiverdi. Sonraları bir zaman Ed dedi ki “okulun doğa sporları kulübü bir mağara gezisi düzenliyormuş gitmek ister misin?” “Aaaa” dedim, “harika olur. Doğayla ilgili her şeye varım! Zaten merak ediyordum bu mağaracılık sporunu”.

Şimdi mağara gezisi dediysek, öyle ferah ferah genişçene bir mağaranın içine cici kıyafetlerinizle girip “aaaa sarkıt aaaa dikit, şipşak şipşak, foto foto” diye turist Ömer gibi dolandığınız mağara gezilerinden bahsetmiyoruz efem! Bu mağaralara giriş zaten ayrı bir eğlence (!), ya sürünerek, ya daracık bir delikten kendini sallandırarak… Çıkarken de herkes kahverengi çıkıyor (çamura bulanmış olarak). Cicilerinizi evde bırakın.

Büyük ve güzel üniversitenin (canımız UMD) Doğa Sporları Kulübü de ayrı güzel oluyormuş, kendimi yeniden ODTÜ’de hissediyorum. Kendilerine ait nefis bir karargahları var. İşte burada:

Ayrıca bu arkadaş da Ed.

Çeşit çeşit gezi düzenliyorlar. Geziden önceki günlerden birinde karargahta topladık, ekipman ayarlandı (tulumlar, kasklar, kafa fenerleri, efenime söyliyim iç donları, eldivenler, dizlikler), gezi ile ilgili ayrıntılar konuşuldu.

İlk mağara gezisinde (Whitings Neck) malesef o sıralar fotoğraf makinam olmadığı için çekim yapamadım. Sadece katılımcılardan birinin getirdiği kullan-at makina ile çekilmiş fotoğraflar var. Fakat bu gezi o kadar keyifliydi ki, ikincisini iple çekmeye başladım.

Spor için girilen mağaralarda geçirdiğiniz vakit aslında neredeyse dağcılık gibi. Ben dağcılık yapmadım ama benziyor diye tahmin ediyorum. Nitekim kimi insanlar mağaracılığa “tersine dağcılık” diyormuş. Bizim gittiğimiz mağaralar dikey değildi, asıl macera dikey mağaralara iple inmekte imiş. Biz yatay düzlemde gezindik, fakat bu haliyle bile oldukça zorlayıcı idi, en azından yeni başlayan biri için. Zira sanki sadece kafam sığarmış gibi görünen minicik deliklerden geçmek, daracık yarıklardan sürünmek, uzun süre çamur içinde emeklemek gerekiyor vesaire. Yani aslında şöyle bir baksanız, deli misin kardeşim ne işin var orada karanlıkta çamurun içinde, dememek mümkün değil, ama mesele de o zaten. Hiç bilmediğiniz, alışık olmadığınız yepisyeni bir ortam, üstelik kendine has bir güzelliği, büyüleyiciliği var. Ki bir de hayalinizden “ben meğersem Yüzüklerin Efendisi filmindeymişim, az sonra orklar çıkıcak şurdan” gibi şeyler kurunca dadından yinmiyor.

Mağaracılığa dair gözlemlediğim diğer tatlı bir ayrıntı da, mağaranın içindeki dikkate değer her delik, odacık, zorlayıcı geçit bölme vesaireye isim veriliyor. Whitings Neck’te milkshake room (milşeyk odası), pancake room (poğaça odası), keyhole (anahtar deliği), birth canal (doğum kanalı) gibi isimlere rastladık. Unutamayacağım iki deneyimden biri, pancake room ve birth canal’da oldu. Pancake room, bir nevi poğaça şekilli dar bir oda. O grupta yaklaşık 15 kişiydik, hepimiz odacığın içine yarasalar gibi dip dibe sığıştık. Sonra ekip liderlerinden biri hepimize ”life savers” denilen beyaz şekerlerden verdi. Meğersem bu şekerleri ağzınızda kıtır kıtır çiğnediğinizde eğer zifiri karanlıkta iseniz çıkan kıvılcımları görebiliyormuşsunuz. Bir süre herkes ışıklarını söndürdü, zifiri karanlıkta etrafımızdakilerin ağzından çıkan kıvılcımlara bakarak şeker çiğnedik. Bazen sırf bu türden rasgele ve garip deneyimleri yaşamak için varolduğumu düşünüyorum. Etrafımda önceki gün hiç tanımadığım, varlıklarından haberdar olmadığım bir grup insanla, bir mağaranın ve dahası yerin altında, minicik bir odacıkta dip dibe uzanmış (oturmak mümkün değil), mutlak karanlıkta şeker çiğneyip çıkan kıvılcımlara şaşırıyorum. C’est la vie!

Diğer muhteşem deneyim ise (ki kimilerine göre tam bir işkence idi), mağaranın doğum kanalı adı verilen kısmında gerçekleşti. Adı üstünde, daracık, çamurla sıvalı uzunca bir kanal var, küçücük bir bölmeye açılıyor (rahim gibi). Bu delikten bölmeye girebilmek için kafanız önde (ayaklarınızı önce sokarak girmek ilk bakışta daha cazip gelse de bu şekilde girmeye imkan yok) dalıyorsunuz, ve yere 75-80 derece dik vaziyette bir süre tepinip ıkındıktan ve süründükten sonra, -çoğafedersigiz- rahim ağzına varıyorsunuz – tam orada bir çamur birikintisi var. Her giren şopadak diye çamur birikintisine ellerini koyup ”oh shit, my god, dammit” şeklinde tepkiler göstererek el mecbur o çamura banmak suretiyle bölmeye giriyor. Kimileri burada oldukça klostrofobik hissetti, sanırım girip çıkmak pek kolay olmadığından böyle bir hisse kapılıyorsunuz, hani hemen dışarı çıkmak isteseniz mümkün değil, onun bilincinde olmak bir garip. Sonra liderlerden biri de geldi yanımıza ve orada öylece biraz sohbet ettikten sonra, tek tek doğum kanalından dışarı çıkmamızı istedi. ”Giriş zor geldiyse çıkışı daha zor haberiniz olsun” dedi. Hakikaten de çok daha ciddi bir debelenişin, kollarınız üzerinde şınav çeker vaziyette bir süre ilerleyişin ardından (çünkü o dik kanaldan inmesi kolay ama çıkarken kendinizi yukarı çekmek için kollara kuvvet lazım), ”ahh, uhhh, vay anam” nidaları ile doğum kanalından çıkıyorsunuz. Evet bir çeşit ”yeniden doğma deneyimi”! Bakınız aşağıda kanala giren ve kanaldan çıkan arkadaşları görüyoruz :)

Mağaracılık deneyimi bu ilk gezide o kadar hoşuma gitti ki, ikincisini duyar duymaz Ed’le hemen yazıldık. Bu defa iki günlük bir mağara macerasına atılıyorduk ve bu yüzden bir gece kamp yapacaktık. Çantalarla çok mesafe yürümeyeceğimiz için bize istediğimiz her türlü yiyecek vesaireyi getirebileceğimizi söylediler. Biz de kamp yapacağımız akşam için mangalın hayalini kurmaya başladık.

Carnegie Mağarası (Chambersburg, Philedelphia’da) ilk gittiğimize nazaran oldukça büyük ve çok daha çamurlu. Tamamını gezebilmek için iki gün gerekiyor. İkinci günde tüplü dalışlarda kullanılan “wet suit” (balıkadam giysisi) giyeceğiz, o kadar suya batacağız ve su o kadar soğuk olacak yani.

Bu fotoğrafta ilk günkü gezi için hazırlık yapıyoruz, tulumların masmavi olduklarına dikkat! Çamaşır deterjanı reklamlarına yaraşır bir hale geleceğiz az sonra.

Mağaranın girişine doğru yürümeye başlıyoruz.

Mağaranın girişi bu evet! Elimdeki sarı şeye “dry bag” deniyor, içine su almaması için ağzı güzelcene büzülebilen bir torba. Fotoğraf makinasını bu torbanın içinde taşıdım, torbanın içine yerleştirdiğim balonlu ambalaj sayesinde, çarpmalardan da korumuş oldum. Bu çantayı ve düzeneği test etmek için bundan daha iyi bir etkinlik olamazdı: hem suya batılıyor, hem çamura bulanıyor, hem de sürekli sürünüp, tırmanıp durdukça makinayı sert yüzeylere çarpma riski had safhada. Makina ve objektifler hala sağlam. Memnun kaldık A+++. Tek problem asmak için bir sapının olmamasıydı. Ama o da bir şekilde halloldu.

Yukarıda gördüğünüz tüneli emekleye emekleye geçtikten ve mağaranın dar girişinde biraz ilerledikten sonra “crossroads” (kavşak) adı verdikleri bölmeye vardık.

Mağaracılık sporu, bulduğunuz bütün deliklere bakalım girebilecek miyim, evet girdim, bakalım şimdi çıkabilecek miyim, sorularına cevap aramaktan ibaret. Bana her seferinde büyükler için yapılmış tehlikeli, çamurlu oyun parkı gibi geldiğini farkettim. Zira içeri girer girmez herkes sırayla bu deliklere girip çıkıyor, başka da bir olay yok. Çamur sayesinde kayganlaşmış kayalardan kayıp (doğal kaydırak) çamurun içine cupppa diye düşmeyi seçenleri de var. Ama işte başlı başına bu çok ilginç ve insanın sınırlarını zorlayan bir deneyim. Kuş, böcek, doğa, yeşillik tarzı bir doğa sporu değil. Aşağıda Ed’i deliklerden birinde görüyorsunuz.

Her yere grup şeklinde gittiğimiz için, yeni bir delik macerasında sıramızı beklerken ağzımızdan dumanlar çıkararak gizemli fotoğraf çalışmalarına imza atıyoruz.

Oturup dinlenme fırsatı buluyoruz.

Çıktığımızda artık kahverengi ve ÇOK yorgunuz.

Bu yorgunluğun üzerine temiz kıyafetler giyip kamp ateşinin çevresine toplaşmak gibisi yok.

Ertesi gün, soğuk hava yüzünden kurumasına imkan olmayan tulumları ateşin üzerinde kurutmaya çalışıyoruz, bu esnada tulumlardan biri eriyor malesef. Bana kalırsa gereksiz bir hareketti. Hem uzun sürdü hem de tulumlar tamamen kurumadı. Zaten mağaraya girer girmez de ıslanıp çamur oluyorsunuz. İçimize giydiğimiz ”wet suit”ler gayet güzel iş görüyor.

İkinci gün fotoğraf makinasını yanıma almadım, çünkü ilk gün görece kolay olan kısmı gezdiğimiz halde oldukça yorulup zorlanmıştım. İkinci gün o kadar çok suya batacağımızdan bahsettiler ki, önceki günün de yorgunluğu ile gözüm yemedi. Nitekim, ayaklarımda normal spor ayakkabı olduğundan, bir süre sonra tir tir titremeye başladım. Aslında akıl edebilsem, tüplü dalış için aldığım dalış ayakkabılarını getirirdim ama liderler bir şey söylemediler, bir baktım onlar bu ayakkabılardan giyiyor.

Bu güne dair en harika ve benim sınırlarımı kesinlikle zorlayan deneyim, ”Dicey” adını verdikleri bölüm idi. Burası genel olarak diz üstüne emekleyerek ilerlediğiniz uzun ve dar bir tünel. Sonuna vardığımızda lider hepimizden lambalarımızı södürmemizi rica etti. Sonra teker teker (önümüzdeki kişinin hedef noktaya varmasını ve ”tamam başla” komutunu almayı bekleyerek) bu tünelden ışık kullanmadan geri döndük. Bu esnada lider hiç kimsenin konuşmamasını istedi. Çok acayip bir deneyimdi. Zifiri karanlıkta el yordamıyla bir tünelden ilerliyorsunuz. Bir noktaya kadar düz giden tünel, orada bir dönüş yapıyor (gelirken dikkat etmemiştiniz tabi). Bir süre hafif bir panikle aranıyorsunuz elinizi kayalara sürerek. Bu sırada sizi hemen oracıkta bekleyen diğerleri hiç ses yapmıyor. Çıkışı bulduğunuzda lider pat diye ışığını açıp yüzünüze tutuyor. :)

Bu da ikinci günün sonunda. Ekip liderlerinden Lev bana ”Oldun sen yiğit” işareti çakıyor.

Carnegie Mağarasına yaptığımız gezi bana askerlik eğitimi gibi geldi. İkinci günün sonuna doğru mağarada o kadar üşümüş ve yorulmuştum ki, hiç yapmadığım bir şey yapıp ”artık çıksak ya lider abicim” diye mızmızlanmaya başladım. Ki beni tanıyanlar bu tip zorlayıcı koşullarda hayatta mızmızlanmayan bir insan olduğumu bilirler. Kendi sınırlarımın farkına varmak açısından nefis bir deneyimdi.

Sonuç olarak, kesinlikle tavsiye ediyorum. Ama anladım ki, insanı böyle rahatlatan filan bir şeyler arıyorsanız bu iş size göre değil. Mesela ben elimde olsa her hafta sonu tüplü dalış yapabilirim. Acayip bir zen, bir hafifleme (suda olduğunuz için bedensel olarak da :), nefis bir doğayla bütünleşme hissi vesaire. Mağara da nefis bir deneyim, ama her hafta sonu yapmayı ancak Gollum’un bünyesi filan kaldırır tahmin ediyorum. Zira hafiflemiş değil ağırlaşmış döndüm. Fakat işte o da ayrı bir güzeldi. Yılda iki kez mağracılık yazıyorum reçeteye. Dünyalı ve insan olma deneyimini keşif gezilerimiz devam edecek!

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  1. meren said,

    Mart 25, 2011 @ 16:48

    Dostum şu fotoğraflara bakarken benim içim daralıyor, hızlı hızlı nefes almaya başlıyorum (ah, sık nefes almamın sebebi düşük basınç da olabilir, 4000 metre yükseklikteyim de şu anda (“sen mağaraya gidiyorsan ben de dağa çıkıyorum ne var” hesabı :p)).

    Ayrıca fisheye doğa sporları / aktivite fotoğrafçılığı için her zaman için en süper tercih olduğunu bir kez daha şeediyor bu yazıda.

  2. Hakan Yasli said,

    Mart 25, 2011 @ 19:46

    Tanımlamalara bayıldım. en cok da şuna: “Mağaracılık sporu, bulduğunuz bütün deliklere bakalım girebilecek miyim, evet girdim, bakalım şimdi çıkabilecek miyim, sorularına cevap aramaktan ibaret.”

    O kadar canlı ve etkileyici anlatılmış ki çamura belenmiş kadar oldum.

    sağolasın Duygu…

  3. NazIm said,

    Mart 26, 2011 @ 01:04

    Ah bee ben de yillar once BUMAK ile Edirne yakinlarinda Dupnisa magarasina gitmistim ve bayilmistim, eski anilari canlandirdin Biyolokum, magaracilik muthis bir spor. Ama arkasini getiremedik tabi, o zamanlar serde dagcilik var, kafa baska turlu calisiyor. Yalniz senin bu Amerikan versiyonuna biraz recreationalizm sosu mu serpilmis bilemedim, o delige gir bu delikten cik kafasi bana biraz garip geldi. Yatay magarada magaranin sonuna gdersin, dikey magarada inebildigin en derin noktaya inersin, arada onune cikan bim bir turlu zorlukla ugrasirsin, ama sirf degisik tecrube tattirmak icin atraksiyonlara girmek bana biraz Amerikan geldi. Belki de yeni baslayanlara yaptiriyorlardir. Neyse, magaracilik diyince Trevanian’in Shibumi’sini anmak, henuz okumamislara siddetle tavsiye etmek farzdir. Magaracilik uzerine Trevanian’dan gelsin o zaman:

    “İnsanoğlunun içinde uyuyan ilkel hayvanın bazı mantık dışı,akıl dışı korkuları vardır.Karanlıktan korkar.Yeraltında olmaktan korkar,çünkü orayı her zaman kötü güçlerin yuvası olarak bellemiştir.Yalnız olmaktan korkar.Tuzağa sıkışmaktan korkar.Sudan bile korkar.Dünyaya oradan geldiği,sudan çıkarak insanlaştığı halde.Kabusu andıran en büyük korkuları ise,bir,karanlığın içine düşmek,iki,dehlizlerde yolunu bulamadan dolaşıp durmaktır.Ve mağaracı dediğin adam,çılgının,kaçığın biri olduğu için bütün bu kabuslarla yüzyüze gelmeyi kendi seçimiyle istemektedir.Kaybedeceği şey ,tehlikeye koyduğu şey aklıdır.”
    ŞİBUMİ/TREVANİAN

    “Mağaracılıkta risk ve cesaret anları kişinin kendine özgü ve özeldir.Sessizdir.Kimse görmüyordur.Üstelik ilkel ve hayvansal korkular işe büyük lezzet katıyordur.Dimdik kuyu gibi yerlerden inişlerde aşağıya düşme tehlikesi vardı.Bütün mahlukat için ortak bir korku,üstelik bu korkuyu artıran şey de,dibi bilinmeyen bir karanlığın içine düşüyor olmaktı.Mağaralarda her an soğuğun ve nemin hissedilir halde olması da korku vericidir.Bu durum gerçi her insanı korkuturdu ama ,mağaracıları özellikle korkuturdu.Çünkü mağaracılıktaki kazaların ve ölümlerin çoğu hipotermia sonucuydu.sonra bir de karanlıga karsı duyulan dogal korku vardı.her an var olan sonsuz sıyahlık,ve bu nedenle insanın gectıgı delikten,vücut eklemlerının yapısı nedenıyle geri cıkaramayıp,orada sıkısıp kalma korkusu…… ve de insanın heran başının üstünde ,hatta zaman zaman sırtının birkaç santim üstünde ,binlerce tonluk kayanın durmakta oldugunu bılmesı duygusu vardı.bu bınlerce tonluk kaya elbette günün birinde yercekımı kanununa bayun eğecek,alttaki incecık geçidi yok edecekti. içinde yatan en ilkel ve hayvansal korkulara karsı zıhınsel kontrolunu ve fızıksel yetenegını kullanmak harıka bı duygu.düşme kurkusuna,bogulma korkusuna,soguga,yalnızlıga,orada edebiyen kaybolma tehlıkesıne ve basınin ustunde hazır bekleyen tonlarca kayanın bılıncıne karsı.”
    SIBUMI/TREVANIAN

  4. Oğuzhan said,

    Mart 26, 2011 @ 02:51

    Mağaranın girişini gösterdiği yazıdan anlaşılan fotoğraf (8. görsel oluyor kendisi) Türkiye şartlarında, DNS ayarı falan dinlemeden gözükmüyor. :/

  5. Murat E. said,

    Mart 28, 2011 @ 06:18

    Öncelikle hoş geldiniz.
    Ben de üniversitede doğa sporlarına meraklı bir insanken denemek üzere teorik eğitimine katılmıştım. Ama gösterdikleri fotoğraflar ve videolardan sonra çocukluğunun bir kısmını dolap, yüklük gibi küçük ve sıkışık mekanlara abisi tarafından hapsedilerek geçiren biri olarak yememişti. Fotoğrafları şu anda göremiyorum ama okurken bile bi fena oldum. Sizi tebrik ediyorum.
    Bu arada Meren Bey, viagra altitude sickness’a iyi geliyormuş. Bir arkadaşım Bolivya’nın dağlarında böyle bir araştırmaya katıldığını söylemişti. :) Herhalde kandaki oksijeni falan arttırıyor.

  6. Biyolokum said,

    Mart 28, 2011 @ 23:21

    Nazım evet biraz Amerikan usulü olduğu doğru ama ben çok sevdim ve o deliklere girip çıkma eğlencesi olmadan bu işten bu kadar keyif alacağımı sanmıyorum. Neticede ilginç bir heyecan, kimileri girdikleri o minicik delikten çıkmak için yarım saat debelendi. (Bir daha mağara gezilerine katıldıklarını sanmıyorum :) Travenian’ın Şibumi kitabını yıllar önce çok severek okumuştum!

    Oğuzhan, farkettiğin ve uyardığın için teşekkürler. Düzelttim diye umuyorum.

    Murat E., o zaman bence fotolara hiç bakma :)

  7. NzN said,

    Nisan 13, 2011 @ 06:51

    amanınn o delikleri gördükçe ben daraldım buralarda!!!!
    ama yine de deney miydim? evet evettt, kesin denerdim :)

  8. Pınar said,

    Mayıs 8, 2011 @ 12:58

    Yaklaşık 5 yıldır Türkiye de mağaracılık yapıyorum, mağara canlılarını inceliyorum, mağaranın derinliklerinde kayboluyorum. Mağara canlıları incelemek adına hipotermi eşiğinden döndüm. Yaz – kış, saatsiz yaşıyoruz mağaraya gittiğimizde. Ben söyleyim, bi kere aldın mı bu tadı, ııh bırakamazsın, bırakma da..

    Derinliğin çağrısına kulak ver!

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